Category Archives: Product reviews

Caramel is magical, and science is delicious

I’m a big nerd. I may not wear a lab coat anymore, but I’m still conducting experiments all the time. Case in point: when I visited a friend in Boulder, Colorado, I knew that it was one mile above sea level. The first thing that popped into my head was “high-altitude baking experiments,” the results of which I still have to document.

When it comes to food, I’m always thinking about the science behind it.

Take caramel, for instance. It seems simple, right? Put sugar (white, crystalline) into a pan and heat it up to 165 degrees Celsius. The resulting caramel (brown, liquid) looks, tastes and smells nothing like sugar. How did it do that? What were the molecular changes? At what temperature? It gets me every time. I think it’s magical and fantastical.

And then there’s Christopher Elbow‘s vanilla bean caramel. It’s lovely, honest flavour. In fact, this chocolate was missing from my chocolate menu and I had to guess what was in it. Sometimes, this is fun; often, it’s a crapshoot as flavours are muddy or, ahem, overly subtle. Well, this was clearly vanilla bean caramel. The caramel was rich and buttery, and just sweet enough. The fragrant vanilla floated on top of the caramel – and who doesn’t love seeing vanilla bean seeds in their food?

But let’s get to the cool science. The mouthfeel was amazing. It was perfectly smooth, but not oozy. As I do with my chocolate tastings, I cut this one in half to get a cross-section view. The caramel looks solid in the shell: it flows a little bit, but it stays in the shell. But then you pop it in your mouh, and your tongue is, quite literally, bathed in liquid caramel. It’s partly to do with the heat of your mouth, but there’s also the molecular structure of the caramel. The study of things that are sometimes liquid, and sometimes solid, is called rheology. I think it’s pretty freaking cool.

But even if you don’t, appreciate this: it makes for lovely caramels.

Christopher Elbow: the classics

Sometimes, I have so many things running around my head that I’m not sure which one to tease out first. In context of this here blog, I have so many notes on delicious, chocolatey things that sometimes it’s hard for me to know which one to talk about first.

In Alice in Wonderland, the Mad Hatter says, “Oh dear. Well start at the beginning and when you get to the end…stop.”

(It also happens to be an email signature of a good friend of mine, so it’s not like I’m always thinking about the Mad Hatter. But hey, I do have high hopes for this movie.)

So, I will begin at the beginning, with Christopher Elbow‘s classic flavours.

Exhibit A: champagne. It’s a milk chocolate-based ganache, which is a good choice – dark chocolate probably would have overpowered the delicate champagne flavour. In fact, “delicate” is an excellent word to describe this confection. There’s a very subtle champagne aroma to the ganache, and it’s like it was constructed by fairies with tiny hands. It’s tastes of delicate, fragrant champagne, and the effect is incredibly elegant. You taste a bit of alcohol, but this is far from boozy. There’s a lovely acidic finish, and – believe it or not – a bubbly sensation just before the flavour dissipates. It’s like champagne, transmogrified into chocolate form.

Exhibit B: raspberry. The description, “raspberry pate de fruit topped with dark chocolate raspberry ganache,” is pretty straightforward. There’s no flowery language, no cutesy name, no marketing buzzwords. And once I tasted it, I understood why.

This chocolate doesn’t need a description. It’s full-frontal raspberry, but in an incredibly refined, elegant way. It’s fruity, bright, clean, and positively juicy. Other chocolatiers make a similar product, but the pate de fruit can be a bit too stiff or gelatinous. Elbow’s pate de fruit is, well, almost al dente. It has a bit of give and texture, but it’s delicate enough to meld seamlessly with the ganache. The ganache itself has a pop of fresh raspberry.

And the most impressive thing with all these chocolates? The finish. These chocolates take you through a very deliberate, well-executed flavour profile…and then they’re gone. The crispness of the finish is really quite remarkable. If you’ve ever been to the symphony (and I hope you have – go once, just for the experience) and have seen the artistry in making all the instruments go quiet at the exact. same. time., then you begin to understand just how deliberate these chocolates are.

Scarecrows and chocolate

When I think of hotbeds of chocolate goodness, a few cities come to mind: Paris, New York, San Francisco. Vancouver’s nice and all, and there are some interesting chocolate makers here, but I don’t think we have quite the reputation as other cities.

But how about Kansas City? Erm. I hear there are wizards and scarecrows there. Or maybe that’s just Kansas in general.

Kansas City is also home to Christopher Elbow, who makes exquisite chocolates. The flavours are clear and pronounced, but still elegant and refined. The textures and technique are impeccable. And, let’s be honest, they’re freaking beautiful. His wife is a graphic designer, and has designed stunning cocoa butter transfers for the chocolates.

The chocolates are a mixture of classic flavours (single-origin chocolate, champagne, caramel), new-fangled exotic flavours (yuzu, Russian tea) and modern twists (strawberry balsamic caramel, rosemary caramel). And while I went through them all with a very critical eye, I don’t have a single bad thing to say. Except, maybe, that I didn’t get to try every single flavour, and that is almost tragic.

Passionate strawberries

I have to hand it to Norman Love, he managed to make me like white chocolate. Normally, I turn my nose up at white chocolate. Oh, there’s nothing wrong with it in principle, but it’s all milky and cloying, and doesn’t actually have any cacao in it. White “chocolate,” pshaw.

His key lime chocolate, for instance. It’s a white chocolate shell (shaped like a conch shell, lightly sprayed with green-tinted cocoa butter) that contains a white chocolate ganache with nice tartness, slight nuttiness, and perfectly smooth texture.

The passionfruit heart is lovely. It’s a milk shell decorated with white- and yellow-tinted cocoa butter, and it’s almost too pretty to eat. Passionfruit is usually quite a tart, punchy flavour. In Norman Love’s hands, it’s subtle and gentle. The passionfruit flavour mixes so well with the bitterness of the ganache, and somehow enhances the fruitiness of the passionfruit. The chocolate and the passionfruit help each other out and it’s delicious. And fantastically smooth.

And the strawberry heart? It’s dark chocolate with splashes of red. And it smells – smells! – like a strawberry patch in the height of summer. I’ve never smelled anything like it, at least not in chocolate form. The ganache is smooth and lovely, with just a kick of something boozy. Strawberry liqueur? It tastes almost like strawberry Pocky, but infinitely better.

Raspberry love

Chocolate and raspberry is a classic flavour combination, for the simple reason that it works. It’s quite easy to make something chocolatey and raspberry and have it work, but it’s something else to make the combination stand out in the sea of mediocrity.

Not only does Norman Love make the chocolate-raspberry combination sing, he does it twice.

His raspberry heart is gorgeous. It’s a white chocolate shell decorated with red cocoa butter. The key here is that the cocoa butter spray isn’t opaque. It’s sprayed in a gradient, so you can still see the white chocolate peeking out and it’s visually interesting – almost 3D.

And inside? Inside is a perfectly smooth, white chocolate-based ganache that is fruity and buttery. The white chocolate compliments the raspberry perfectly without being heavy or cloying, and through some crazy miracle, there is only the faintest milky aftertaste from the white chocolate.

And then there’s the raspberry dome. The shell is absolutely perfect: a thin layer of dark chocolate that is a thing of beauty. It’s decorated with swirls of red and white cocoa butter, and it’s stunning. Inside is a positively juicy raspberry ganache. First, you taste the punch of raspberry, which mellows to the bitterness of the dark chocolate, and finishes with the cocoa notes of the dark chocolate.

Put another way, the raspberry dome is like the love child of dark chocolate and dark raspberry. And when I say raspberry, I don’t mean a light, pink, frou-frou raspberry. I mean a late season raspberry that you want to squish between your fingers.

And this love child? It’s wearing a red dress and stilettos and it’s going to break your heart.