The Well-Tempered Chocolatier

Entries tagged as ‘coffee’

Women and chocolate

October 16, 2009 · 4 Comments

On a slow news day, you’ll probably find some variation on the statistic that anywhere from 50-70% of women prefer chocolate to sex. Well, in an informal study yesterday afternoon, I asked four women which they’d prefer. Three of the four chose chocolate. The fourth chose both.

This post is about women who make great chocolate, right here in Vancouver. And, as a nice supplement to last week’s post, you might be surprised where chocolate lurks.

Chocolaterie de la Nouvelle France

chocolaterie_logoThis shop opened up on a sleepy side street just off Main Street in what used to be a chic, but overpriced, clothing boutique. The shop is decorated simply but is oh-so-cute, with a chalkboard listing the daily offerings.

Truffles are sold by weight, and include tasty delights like orange blossom (delicate, floral and fragrant), Earl Grey tea (aromatic, elegant, and positively bursting with bergamot) and coffee (deep, dark and earthy). There are also truffles made with single-origin chocolates from Venezuela and Madagascar.

These are serious truffles that don’t skimp on the chocolate. They’re dense, rich and almost impossibly smooth. Finished with a light dusting of Valrhona cocoa powder, they’re shockingly good. Though they’re all delicious, the Earl Grey truffle is the best of the bunch.

You can also get small chocolate squares adorned with aromatic additions like lavender and chile flakes. The chocolatière, Anne-Geneviève Poitras, has taken care to match each chocolate with an appropriate flavour, pairing the higher percentage chocolate with robust flavours and the lower percentage chocolate with more delicate flavours.

I love it when people pay attention to detail.

Chocolaterie de la Nouvelle France
198 East 21st Avenue
Vancouver, BC
604-566-1065

Bad Girl Chocolates

bad_girl_logo[Disclaimer! Disclosure! Kelly Boyd, the woman behind Bad Girl Chocolates, is a friend of mine. She also makes kick-ass chocolates, and I wouldn't be talking about her stuff if it weren't good. So there.]

Bad Girl Chocolates has been a staple of the Vancouver Farmers Markets for a few years now, and I always look forward to this booth. Is it the cheeky, ‘40s-style pin-up girls that adorn the packages? Is it that the traditional flavours (caramel, nuts) sidle up next to the wacky ones (pomegranate, balsamic vinegar)? Is it the use of local ingredients wherever possible?

I guess it’s a bit of everything. Plus, I can have a chocolate while I fondle the produce at the other booths. (I mean, really. Did you see the peaches this year, all fuzzy and blushing pink? I dare you not to fondle a fresh peach or stick your nose into an ear of fresh picked corn. Seriously.)

Even better, a lot Kelly’s products are vegan. The ganache for Bad Girl Chocolates are made with —gasp! —water, rather than cream. At first, I was a huge skeptic, but now I’m a convert. The flavours are crisp and clean, and the chocolates taste just as rich as one made with a cream-based ganache. I won’t be making water ganaches myself, but I’m happy to eat them.

Don’t miss the fun, seasonal products. Not only are they limited edition chocolates, but they’re also the season’s bounty at its peak. I spied pears at the fruit stand last week, so I’m keeping my eyes peeled for Kelly’s pear truffle: pear ganache with pear caramel. The mere thought of it makes my knees weak.

Bad Girl Chocolates doesn’t have a storefront, but you can order online here. They’re also available at most of the Winter Farmers Markets, though the final schedule still has to be posted. You can also check out Bad Girl Chocolates’ debut at this year’s Circle Craft Fair, November 11-15 at the Vancouver Convention Centre.

Categories: Product reviews
Tagged: , , , , , , , , ,

49th Parallel: where coffee meets chocolate

July 7, 2009 · 2 Comments

A while back, I wrote about Soma Chocolatemaker’s microbatch bars. A few Vancouver readers mentioned that they would love to try the Dark Science Papua New Guinea bar (tastes like toast!) or the Green Tangerine bar (tastes like, erm, green tangerine).

Well, huzzah! You can get select Soma bars at 49th Parallel in Vancouver. They even had some microbatch bars that I didn’t see in Toronto. They also have a nice selection of Askinosie chocolate bars, which I tasted last month and have been meaning to review. I better get on that, eh?

(They also happen to have some lovely coffee, if you’re into that sort of thing.)

49th Parallel Coffee Roasters
2152 4th Avenue West
Vancouver, BC

Categories: Links
Tagged: , , , ,

Chocolate and coffee

July 6, 2009 · 2 Comments

It’s a pastry chef’s secret that if you’re making something chocolate-flavoured, a little bit of coffee acts like an invisible flavour enhancer. This is true for chocolate cake, chocolate icing, chocolate pudding, chocolate pastry, chocolate pudding pie, chocolate souffle…wait, what was I talking about?

Oh, right. Chocolate and coffee.

When used properly in chocolate recipes, you don’t even taste the addition of coffee. But there’s something about it that makes the chocolate taste more robust, more chocolatey, more kick-ass. As if it needed any help.

This is one of the few cases when I’ll actually advocate the use of freeze-dried coffee. No longer the stuff of camping trips, a teaspoon or two can make a surprising difference.

When I have the time and inclination, I’ll make a batch of espresso and then boil it down until it’s a thick syrup. I keep it in the fridge and add it to recipes that can accommodate the extra liquid.

So there you go. The cat’s out of the bag.

Categories: Confessions · Food science
Tagged: ,

Seth Ellis Chocolatier coffee truffles

May 8, 2009 · Leave a Comment

seth-ellis-coffee

Photo credit: Rick Levine

I’m a sucker for coffee-flavoured anything. And coffee and chocolate is one of my favourites. The flavours go so nicely together, with the coffee enhancing the chocolate-ness of chocolate. And, let’s face it, if I can get a kick of caffeine while eating chocolate – or at least, the perception that I’m getting a kick of caffeine - that’s a great thing.

Seth Ellis Chocolatier’s coffee truffle doesn’t disappoint. In a nod to yesterday’s post about molded chocolate shells, the shell on this truffle is lovely. It’s perfectly uniform, and just thick enough to hug all the coffee ganache that’s waiting inside.

And oh, what a coffee ganache. It’s like staring into a cup of freshly brewed dark roast coffee, taking a deep breath, and feeling like you’re falling into a pool of deep, dark, slightly bitter deliciousness. The coffee and chocolate compliment each other perfectly, bringing out the fullness of both flavours. It’s divine.

Seth Ellis chocolates are available at select locations in the Denver/Boulder area, and that page will soon be updated to reflect the five NYC Whole Foods that now carries them. You can also buy them online through It’s Only Natural Gifts or through Foodzie.

Categories: Product reviews · Travel
Tagged: , , ,

ChocoLove organic 73% dark chocolate bar

April 15, 2009 · 1 Comment

Ah, organic. It’s such an over-used word, showing up on labels everywhere. People try to buy it because they understand it to be better (whatever “better” means) but there’s a lot of confusion about what it actually means.

Labelling aside, let’s talk about taste. Even as recently as a couple of years ago, organic chocolate was pretty awful. A lot of it tasted like dirt, was chalky, or was just plain disgusting. Thankfully, there are a number of good options on the market now, and they won’t cost you an arm and a leg.

Chocolove’s 73% organic dark chocolate bar is a glowing example. In February 2008, it was named as one of Bon Appetit’s top organic chocolate bars. But never mind the hype – it’s just a really good chocolate bar. It’s nice and rich, with hints of coffee and just enough bitterness to make me want to have this with a lovely glass of port.

ChocoLove is available here (mostly in the US, but some online sources probably ship to Canada) or you can buy directly from them online.

Categories: Product reviews
Tagged: , , , ,