The Well-Tempered Chocolatier

…I’m back!

September 14, 2009 · 7 Comments

Huzzah!

Hello, lovelies. Thanks for your patience while I took a bit of a break. It was a case of life spinning madly out of control, and something had to give. While I’m sad that it was this blog, I’m glad to be back and writing. I’ve had a good think about how to balance the things I need to do with the things that I want to do, and I’ve come to a decision.

I’m going to post, at minimum, once a week. Yes, that’s significantly less than the daily posts that I started with. However, seeing as how I started this blog while I was delightfully unemployed, I think that a weekly post is a happy compromise. It’s a case of quality versus quantity. This way, I can have a week to think about what I want to say, and make it count. [So she says hopefully.]

Yup. And now we return to your regularly scheduled programming.

I’ve started working with chocolate again. I’ve been writing about it and tasting it for nearly a year now, but I really needed a break from working with it. It didn’t occur to me how much I missed it, but I’ve been experimenting for the past couple of weeks. And, I’m pleased to report, I love it again. LOVE. IT. There’s something about watching chocolate melt, playing with the temperatures, tempering it, and inspecting the final products. And, of course, eating it.

In honour of International Bacon Day, I made a batch of bacon caramels and dipped them in chocolate. Dipping the caramels was surprisingly tricky. They were softer than caramels that I’ve worked with before, so I had to work quickly before they relaxed into limpid pools of caramel goodness.

And, each caramel donated a bit of bacon fat to the bowl of chocolate. It was exceedingly generous of them, but by the end of the batch the chocolates were looking like they weren’t setting as well. I panicked a bit (oh noes! have I lost my tempering touch?) until I realized that it was a layer of bacon fat on top of the chocolate. Hrm. They did set in the end, and they were delicious, but this is a logistical detail that I’ll have to work out.

This weekend, when gifted with some fresh basil from a friend’s garden, I made some lemon-basil truffles. They’re more basil than lemon, but they taste bright and summery and delicious, and I’ll take it.

In culinary school, I always emerged from chocolate classes looking like I had taken a bath in it. I was notorious for getting two horizontal streaks, one each at chest-level and waist-level. Chest-level corresponded to the rim of the giant bowl of chocolate that I was tempering, and waist-level corresponded to the height of the granite counter.

Thankfully, I work cleaner these days. The kitchen is spotless and I didn’t get anything on my apron – though, I confess that on my evening run yesterday, I found a  streak of chocolate on my high-tech, air-wicking running shirt. The chocolate pixies must be after me. It only makes me run faster.

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CIBC Run for the Cure

September 13, 2009 · Leave a Comment

On Sunday, October 4th, I’ll be running in my fifth annual CIBC Run for the Cure. This 5 kilometre run raises money for breast cancer support and research in Canada. I’ll be running for the great women who have fought (and, in some cases, lost) the fight against breast cancer.

Help me reach my fundraising goal by donating here. Donations of $20 or more get a tax receipt, but I will happily accept whatever you care to give. Thanks in advance.

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A human s’more

August 28, 2009 · Leave a Comment

I love barbecues. There’s something about burnt food on a barbecue that tastes infinitely better than the food that I occasionally burn in my kitchen.

And marshmallows. I mean, really. Fire + marshmallow = nom nom sticky nom nom.

Except, of course, that you need to bring skewers or some sort of poky device in order to toast marshmallows. Which, sadly, I failed to do at last night’s barbecue. I ended up talking to the man behind the grill, who declined a marshmallow. He claimed that he had eaten too many as a kid and has been off them since. In fact, he claimed that he ate so many in one sitting that his head became a giant marshmallow and chocolate began to ooze out of his ears. And then someone put his head between two pieces of graham cracker and he became a human s’more.

I’m pretty sure that he was kidding, but man. I could kill for a s’more right now.

P.S. Did you know that there are four marshmallows in a serving. Four!

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Sigh.

August 25, 2009 · 1 Comment

Oh baby, you know that I love you. And I know that I don’t take you out as often as I used to, or spend as much time doting on you, but you know that I love you. Srsly. For realz.

One of these days, I’ll make it up to you. And I’ll get all pretty and dressed up and wear stupid shoes and drink too much wine and we can get messy drunk with beautiful food. And the waiter will smile because when I get messy drunk I’m still charming and beautiful (though clearly not modest), never boorish and lame. And I tip well. And I flirt in a non-threatening way. Harrumph.

In the interim, work is really cutting into my social life and blogging life. I’ll post some fabulousness once things get back to normal. In the interim, you can get your food fix on my Twitter stream. It isn’t all about chocolate – lately, it’s about pie! and! blackberries! – but it might do in a pinch. And if you don’t get this “Twitter thing” and want me to explain it to you, then you’re out of luck. Something about 140 characters and status updates and answering life’s perpetual question, “what are you doing?” except that no one’s status updates actually answer said question.

I’ll be back shortly, I promise.

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Guilt-free chocolate (for real, now)

August 21, 2009 · Leave a Comment

I’m kind of partial to this post I wrote in response to Callebaut’s announcement of low-calorie, no-melt chocolate. I guess you could say I’m a chocolate purist. I’m also picky as hell – and yes, I do realize that it’s just my opinion and that you are welcome to yours. But, well, this is my blog and I’ll post whatever snarkiness I feel like, ya hear?

(Which is kind of funny in itself, because I’m infinitely nicer in this blog than I am in real life. Well-tempered? Some days.)

So in a time when everyone is concerned about where their food comes from, how does chocolate fit in? After all, the majority of cocoa is harvested using some form of slave or child labour. Egads. Never mind the calories (I’ve never been a fan of guilty calories, anyway) but moral guilt? Sure.

Well, that’s all the more reason to spend money on good chocolate. Chocolate that’s sourced ethically. Whether it’s fair trade, direct trade, organic, or whatever labels people have chosen to align themselves with, there are some companies out there who are working directly with farmers. I have grand plans of highlighting some of them over the next couple of weeks. Oh, what fun!

Why bother with artisan chocolate? Well, it means that the consumer can eat chocolate that’s been ethically sourced. Of course, that also means that you’re willing to pay a bit more for it – but the higher cost is some mixture of marketing, licensing (it ain’t cheap to get a fair trade label on a chocolate bar) and a reflection of the actual cost of producing food.

It’s about accountability. Since farmers are accountable to the chocolate buyer, the pickier the chocolate buyer is, the more care a farmer will take. The extra care is buoyed by the fact that the chocolate buyer pays more, and in most cases, works with the farmer to create better working conditions. It’s a win-win situation. And since the buyer has now invested time in purchasing the beans, you’d better believe that they’ll take extra care in processing the chocolate. They’ll baby the chocolate, take care to roast it to perfection (and not one second later), and follow every step to ensure that the consumer gets the best possible chocolate.

On a more holistic level, it means that you’re buying a product that was made with love. I’ve yet to meet anyone in the food business who is primarily driven by money. More often than not, choosing to work with food comes from a very primal place. You do it because you love it. You do it because you must.

And you can taste it in artisan chocolate. You can taste the hard work that the farmer put into it, the care that went into selecting the best beans, the attention to detail in every step of the processing. In all my talking with artisan chocolate makers, all of whom use slightly different processes, one common theme emerges: they unequivocally, absolutely love what they’re doing.

Contrast that with the mass chocolate market, where the goal is to make as much money as possible, with the cheapest ingredients possible. Farmers? Care? Love? What’s that? We’re talking about the bottom line, fillers, waxes and preservatives. And lots and lots of marketing so that the consumer can pay as little as possible for the lamest product possible.

And really, why? So that we can stuff our faces with a shadow of chocolate? No thanks.

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