Tag Archives: lard

Strawberry rhubarb pie. Leaf lard crust. Divine.

Strawberry rhubarb pie with leaf lard crustThis post is totally not chocolate-related, but it’s officially summer (even the sun knows it, finally!) and the farmers market is full of goodies. Like strawberries and rhubarb. And pig fat.

I’ve spoken with the lovely Kate McDermott before about her wondrous pies. Kate makes The World’s Best Pie, as I discovered last summer. She swears by leaf lard, and I’ve been altogether too lazy to track down a source of it in Vancouver.

Leaf lard is the fat from around a pig’s kidneys, and is highly prized for its clean flavour and magically flaky pie properties. I finally found a source for it in Vancouver, and bought mine from Gelderman Farms at the Main Street farmers market. Give them a call or drop them an email, let them know how much you want, and they’ll have it for you at their next market date.

I bought three pounds of frozen leaf lard from them and rendered half of it in my crockpot. I used Cheeseslave’s handy how-to, and it worked like a charm. However, whereas most instructions call for the rendered lard to be strained into mason jars, I poured mine into a loaf pan lined with parchment paper. Once it solidified (overnight, in the fridge) it lifted out of the loaf pan easily. I now have a brick of white fat hanging out in the back of my fridge, wrapped in parchment and stored in a ziptop bag.

Word to the wise: while most instructions say that rendering fat produces a rather, erm, distinctive smell, I don’t think it’s unpleasant. However, it definitely smelled porky in my apartment for about six hours. I happened to be making peanut butter ice cream at the same time, and it got me thinking about peanut butter and bacon sandwiches…but that’s another post for another time.

Of course, all the fun of leaf lard is in making pie with it. I’ve worked with store-bought lard before and just find it off-putting. It’s strange-tasting, greasy and slick—and while it does produce a pretty flaky crust, there’s something missing.Strawberry rhubarb pie with leaf lard crust

So I made pie. And it is the best pie that I’ve made so far. I went a bit overboard with the sugar for the filling, but I’m so distracted at the exquisite flakiness of the crust, the crisp sound that it makes when you plunge your fork into it, and the delicate, buttery sweetness of it that I don’t even care about the filling.

Now that, my friends, is good pie. And I’m wholly convinced about the leaf lard thing.

Pi(e) day: 2 days to go!

Whatever mixture of fats you use in your pie crust, here’s a rule of thumb: keep it cold. Keep shortening in the freezer until you need it, and butter/lard in the fridge until you need it.

Trying to incorporate warm, soft fat into a pie crust will only result in chewy, tough pie crust. If you’re after a flaky crust, then you want to incorporate the fat as small, distinct chunks. If you want to get small, distinct chunks of fat, you’d best work with it cold.

Speaking of which, most recipes call for ice water. It’s not just a conspiracy of recipe writers to make your life more difficult. It’s just a variation on a theme. If you’ve gone to the trouble of selecting your fats, and keeping them cold, why on earth add warm water and cancel out all your efforts?

Just remember: keep it cold.

Pi(e) day: 3 days to go!

Dining Out for Life is this Thursday, March 12, 2009. More than 200 restaurants will donate 25% of their food proceeds to A Loving Spoonful and Friends For Life. I’ll be at the Cascade Room. Where will you dine?

Lard gets a bad rap. Yes, it’s rendered from pigs. (But, as we all know, pigs = delicious.) Yes, it’s saturated fat. But consider that vegetable shortening, which is perceived as being better for you, actually contains as much saturated fat and more trans fat than lard.

So there.

I don’t usually use lard because it has a very distinct flavour that doesn’t agree with some fillings. Having said that, a lard-based crust for a peach pie is nothing short of magical.